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05-11-2020
Column: Nature Notes - OCEAN WAVES AND TSUNAMIS
Column: Nature Notes - OCEAN WAVES AND TSUNAMIS
This is because there are fundamental differences between ocean waves and tsunamis.
Most ocean waves are created by wind on the ocean surface. As a breeze blows over water, the surface tension breaks and ripples are created, the wind pushes the back of the ripples and eddies form at the front. The particles of water are pushed into a circular movement that reinforces the shape of the wave.
Waves may look like a movement of water, but actually they are a movement of energy and have very little forward movement of the water particles themselves. Once a wave makes contact with the seabed, friction slows the bottom of the wave, but the crest continues at the same speed and then spills over and releases its energy onto the shore. The profile of the seabed determines if a wave surges, plunges or spills.
Tsunamis are created by the displacement of immense volumes of water caused by phenomena such as earthquakes, volcanic explosions and events such as meteorite impact. Unlike an ocean wave, a tsunami is a moving wa

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