Most ocean waves are created by wind, as a breeze blows over water, the surface tension breaks and ripples are created, the wind pushes the back of the ripples and eddies form at the front. Friction between the air and the water transfers energy from the wind into the ocean and pushes the particles of water into a circular, orbital movement that creates the shape of a wave. Ocean waves appear to be movements of water, but they are actually transmission of kinetic energy through seawater. Although ocean waves can travel great distances, there is very little forward movement of the water particles themselves. Energy transfers between the water molecules but the molecules mainly bob up and down in place.

Surf is a breaking wave and it is created when a wave makes contact with the seabed and friction slows the velocity of the wave base, but the top of the wave continues to move at the same speed. Eventually this speed difference causes the wave to tip forward, break apart and release its energy.
Breaking waves exist in highly variable environments influenced by wind, tides and currents but it is basically the profile of the seabed which creates different types of breaking waves. These have been classified into different types based on changes to the wave surface profile during the breaking process.
Surging waves are found in deep water, they are stable and may not actually break.
Spilling waves are found where there is a sloping or gentle gradient of seabed, the crest of the wave crumbles at the top and spills down the front of the wave, dissipating energy uniformly.
Plunging or dumping waves occur where the seabed is steep or shallow, and the base of the wave is slowed abruptly, the crest of the wave curls forward and plunges over the front of the wave, releasing energy suddenly.
A surf break is an area with characteristics that cause waves to break - beach breaks, point breaks, reef breaks, river/estuary breaks and ledge breaks.
The fluid dynamics of broken waves are complex, but obviously the mass of water released by the waves must quickly return seawards to maintain the water level, and this movement creates a rip current.
Although we still do not fully understand the complex mechanics of the surf zone, it remains a source of enjoyment, excitement, relaxation and inspiration.